can i use electric sander on drywall

        “Putting,” the process of applying several thin layers of drywall compound to the seams and threaded holes of freshly hung drywall, sounds messy, and it is. If everything is done correctly, the wall will be perfectly flat and the seams will not be visible.
        While a professional drywall cone makes dirt visually easy, do-it-yourselfers are finding that it takes practice, skill, and of course, the right gear (in this case, the dirt itself and tape to prevent cracks in the joints). This guide describes the materials needed to apply drywall and is guided step by step by the craftsmen through the entire process.
        There are two main types of drywall dirt: pre-mixed dirt and powdered dirt. There are also differences in each type, which can make it difficult to choose the right product for your job. Here’s a rundown of the types of drywall dirt you’re likely to find at a home improvement store:
        A premixed sealant is just a solution mixed with water to a smooth consistency and ready to use. In this category you will find all purpose mud, topping mud and light all purpose mud.
        Powdered drywall clay, also known as “fixing mud” or “hot mud”, contains chemicals that, when water is added to the powder, speed up hardening time. This type of grout shrinks less than pre-mixed general purpose grout but sets very quickly. The fast-setting mortar is great for pre-filling large gaps in walls or smoothing out dented drywall corners before starting the actual grouting process.
        During the grouting process, the tape acts as an adhesive, preventing cracks in the finished wall along the drywall joints. There are different types of tape: washi tape, mesh tape, and preformed tape, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.
        Now that you know your mud material, it’s time to familiarize yourself with the process described here. Because washi tape delivers the most professional results, we’ll detail how to use washi tape for drywall grouting. If you are using mesh tape, below are some tips to help you get it right.
        Cover the floor with a tarpaulin (plastic can get very slippery), put on goggles and old clothes. Dirt is a messy process and if it gets in your eyes, it can sting.
        Open the lid of the premix bucket. If using a powdered hardened drilling fluid, mix according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and, using a powerful paddle-tipped drill, mix until a homogeneous mass is obtained.
        Drywall panels have a slight bevel on the long sides. When the ramps are joined together, a small depression about 2 inches wide is created along the seam. Use a 6-inch band knife to evenly spread the grout across the joint, filling in any indentations and removing excess.
        While the dirt is still wet, a piece of washi tape is cut off and attached to the joint, a process called “bedding”. Using a 6″ band cutter, gently spread the paper over the damp dirt, removing any air bubbles. Use a knife to wipe off excess dirt.
        Using a 6-inch knife, apply a thin layer of clay to both sides of the inside corner, making sure to work all the way to the center. Cut, fold a strip of pre-folded washi tape and attach it to the corner of the wet dirt. Using a 6″ tape cutter or inner corner tape tool that is pre-shaped at a 90 degree angle for easy styling, gently flatten the washi tape into the wet mud. Gently iron the tape without moving it from the corners. Remove excess dirt from the wall.
       If you are using pre-glued corners, apply according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, then sand the corners using long vertical strokes on both sides to create sharp, even corners.
        By using drywall panels that span the entire room, you avoid butt joints that occur when the non-tapered ends of drywall panels fit together. But getting a smooth surface is more difficult when dealing with ends without bevelled recesses. Cover them with dirt in the same way as you did with the fillet seams, being careful to use as much dirt as possible to fill in and seal the seams.
        Let all the dirt dry before applying the next layer. In the same order as the first coat, apply a second coat of primer to threaded slots, gussets, and inside and outside corners, only this time use primer only. No need to add more tape! Simply apply a thin layer of dirt and wipe off excess.
        To apply a second coat to the butt joint, use a 10″ band cutter, apply two coats of grout approximately 8″ wide along both sides of the first coat of joint coat, but not over the original joint. This inadvertently increases the thickness of the wall over a wider area to reduce the appearance of bulky butt joints. Smooth the edges of the strips with a knife to make them look smooth.
        After the second layer has dried, apply a third, very thin layer of dirt. Use a 10 inch knife to clear all screw dents, seams and corners. A wider blade will allow you to shave off the edges of the dirt as finely as a razor. Follow the same steps as before for bevels and corners. Butt-butt a thin layer of clay over the previous strip and the original seam. It is not uncommon for a strip of mud to be 2 feet or more wide at the bottom.
        When the dirt is dry, apply a final thin coat only to the butt joint. Comb the edges well and let the dirt dry. An important question to ask before moving on to the last step is, “How long does it take for drywall putty to dry?” For most types of drywall putty, this will take about 24 hours, but see the product label for specific drying time information.
        Wear a respirator and goggles before sanding. Use a drywall sander, or if you need to minimize airborne dust, rent an electric drywall sander from your local hardware store. Sand all seams and nail holes until the wall is completely smooth. Now you can start painting or wallpapering!
        Unlike paper tape, which requires padding in wet mud, self-adhesive mesh tape is applied to the seam and then when the mud is applied, just the right amount of dirt seeps through the mesh into the bottom seam. The order of gluing is the same: first, recesses and joints are screwed at an angle, then internal and external corners, and finally, butt joints. If you use mesh tape on flat seams, be aware that it won’t fit into the corners. Use origami tape for inside corners and pre-shaped tape for outside corners.


Post time: Aug-02-2023